ANTIQUE vs VINTAGE
ANTIQUE /VINTAGE clothing is terms for new and secondhand garments. Items are usually of good quality in materials, style and construction and exhibit many unusual detailing, buttons and closures.
ANTIQUE CLOTHING ---clothes that were produced prior to l920, we will focus mainly on items from 1850’s to 1920.
VICTORIAN---a name given to an era (1860 -1901) when Queen Victoria reigned. She was mourning her husband for many years, thus the styles in furniture, and clothing and social morals were very conservative, at least in public.
Queen
Victoria reigned as the Queen of England and was in mourning for much of
the time. The period is still a by-word for sexual repression. Women’s
clothing was fussy and overdone, and Men’s wear was formal and stiff.
The clothing covered the entire body and even a glimpse of the ankle was
scandalous. Corsets constricted the women’s body, but they also
stressed woman’s sexuality by exaggerating the small waist, large bust
and hips. Needless to say, the tightness of the corset caused many
internal medical problems for the ladies. The most influential designer
of the time was Charles Frederick Worth, founder of haute couture
industry, and a dominant fashion force for 50 years especially among
ladies of royalty and upper echelons of society.
Mid-Victorian
era fashion(1860’s) was dominated by the boned cage or crinoline or
“hoop slip”. By 1870’s the crinoline lost ground, and interest
silhouettes shifted to the back via the bustle. The skirt became less
voluminous with princess line and gores in the front, fuller gores and
train in the back. This silhouette would remain popular until the end of
the century. In this collection there are several beautiful antique
pieces or outfits. The sizes are quite small due to corsets and the
petite size of women of that time and keep in mind the type of fabric
that is used. Silk will deteriorate over time, but items made of
cotton, linen and wool are quite durable. An item can be very charming
despite the fact that it may have a slight flaw, repair, or stain.
Some of these antique pieces are best used as a showpiece instead of
wearing due to their rarity and delicate condition.
Gibson--1900-1910---King
Edward VII reigned in England from 1901-1910. Edwardian is the name of
that era although his influence took a back seat to the “GIBSON LOOK”.
The “Gibson Girl” personified a feminine ideal as created by Charles
Gibson. The youthful model was tall, slender, busty, s-curved torso,
and hair piled up on top of her head and use of large hats. The new
health corset removed pressure from the abdomen and created s-curve
silhouette which become the main stay for women. The bodice has a high
neckline, leg of mutton sleeves, pointer pigeon silhouette on front, and
sloped waistline and the use of white for garden parties were the
vogue. We have several original dresses in this time period that are in
great condition or have been repaired professionally. By the end of the
decade, the gowns had a more conservative cut, with higher waists and
slimmer figure.
VINTAGE
CLOTHING---garments originating from eras 1920-1980. To aid in
understanding our PRODUCT SHOWCASE keywords and decades will be given,
along with information that reflected the changes in
styles.
!920's--America
entered a prosperous era after WWI, social customs and morals were
relaxed and new music and dances came in vogue. Woman won the right to
vote, started participating in all sorts of sports, liquor was
prohibited, and the Charleston was the new dance craze. From 1925 the
styles that are associated with the “roaring twenties” were embraced by
the public, especially the youth. Young girls removed the constricting
corsets and banded themselves with a bandeau, flattening the chest and
emphasizing a more boyish look. Silk was still used for beaded dresses
but an artificial fiber, rayon replaced silk in stockings and
undergarments. Long hair was cut short and the cloche hat became very
fashionable. We have numerous “one of a kind” original pieces in
various sizes and all have been attended to by relining, repaired or
rebeaded.
1930's---As
the public began to feel the effect of the Great Depression fashions
started moving away from the brash and daring styles of the 1920’s,
towards a more romantic, feminine silhouette. The waist reclaimed its’
proper position, hemlines dropped, and an appreciation of the bust was
apparent. The most significant fashion trend of the 1930’s is the use of
synthetic fibers especially in lingerie, and nylon stockings and the
ease of using zippers as a closure in clothing. Due to the influence of
big band, woman’s dresses were designed with lovely details on the back
which were noticeable when dancing. Many dresses were designed on the
bias, which fit a trim lady beautifully.
By the end of
the decade, woman’s fashions had more emphasis with the shouldered
silhouette and the day dress with fur collars and accessories.
1940’s---WWII
the roles men and women were drastically changing and so did styles in
clothing. Women were joining the war effort in many different ways,
either here in the states or abroad. For the first time, women were
working outside the home in jobs previously done by men. Designer houses
in Paris were closed down and home sewing became a necessity. The
basic black dress came into vogue.
1950's---Woman’s
fashion from the 1950’s was dominated by nylon, beehive hairstyles,
petticoats, bold femininity, bright lipstick, cinched waists, elegant
long skirts, blouses, belts, sweater sets, an emphasis on soft shoulder
lines and full, full, full skirts. The decade of the fifties continued
to be influenced by Christian Dior’s look, especially in haute couture.
Growing numbers of t.v. viewers would watch stars sporting the latest
fashions. Dior’s response was to create a new line every season,
changing styles and hemlines so that last year’s fashions were obsolete.
Separates and mix and match tops, skirts, and pants were in vogue. CoCo
Chanel came out of retirement and became a major fashion influence in
the world. Her Chanel suit changed little except in detail and material
for several years.
1960-70's---In
the 1960’s a radical shake-up occurred in fashion. There was no single
trend but a statement of personal freedom. Some of the Parisian and
American designers were still influential but the youth preferred the
new mod, uncomforting style. These fashions included the miniskirt,
exposure of the knee, high boots, use of synthetic fibers, and the
demise of hats. The style was substituting stilettos for kitten heels,
wedges, and chiseled toes. The shift dress, sportswear, op art, and
psychedelic prints were all part of Emilio Pucci’s designs. Paco Rabanne
made garments out of aluminum, disposable paper, and vinyl. The hippy
and psychedelic movements late in the decade also had a strong influence
in styles including bell bottoms jeans, tie-dye, batik and hand painted
fabrics. These styles moved into the “free”, “please yourself” 1970’s
decade.
